PARROTCARING FOR YOUR
PARROT Including Parakeets, African Greys and Amazons. Parrots make interesting and enjoyable pets. However a single caged bird will require a lot of attention and stimulus if it is not to become bored and frustrated. Parrots are natural acrobats and mimics. Some can learn simple words and phrases and are excellent whistlers. Many parrots have a long lifespan and are therefore a long term commitment. General care
Properly cared for your parrot will live a long and happy life. Early signs of illness include loose droppings, discharge from the nostrils, laboured breathing, feathers raised to give a puffed up appearance, resting with head under the wing and both feet on the perch. If you are at all worried about your parrots health, contact your vet. Feathers - These should not be allowed to become too dry. You should use a
suitable fine mist spray, together with a special solution to spray on. Your pet shop will advise. Some parrots do enjoy a bath but not all. Colds - Chilling causes colds. The bird will be listless, with feathers fluffed up
and wheezing. Keep it warm and do not bath. Consult your vet. Diarrhoea - This is commonly caused by an excess of green food, mouldy or
contaminated food, a change in diet or lack of fresh water. Keep him warm, make sure he has plenty of fresh water and consult your vet. Mites - Usually the red mite, this is a parasite which feeds on birds blood,
causing itching and weight loss. Mites are easy to destroy with a suitable spray. Your pet shop or vet will advise. Beaks and nails - Should they become overgrown you will need to get expert
help. Feather plucking - This can be due to a poor diet, lack of exercise or
stimulation. Spend time with your cockatiel and provide novel toys. If the condition persists, consult your vet. Shopping List Cage and cage stand Cage cover Water pot Seed pot Perches Seed guard Food Bath Toys Sand/sand sheets Vitamin drops Cuttle fish Mineral block Pet safe disinfectant A good book on parrot care This leaflet is produced by the Pet Care Trust, the national charity that promotes the benefits of pet ownership and education within the pet care industry. For more information go to www.petcare.org.uk, or phone 08700 624 400. A Company Limited by Guarantee and Registered in England No. 666171. Registered Office as above. Registered Charity No. 1052488 © Pet Care Trust
Choosing and buying a parrot A healthy parrot should: Be bright and alert. Have no signs of discharge from the eyes or nostrils. Have a clean vent area. Have feathers flush to the body and not fluffed up. Have no signs of breathing problems. Have fluent movement with no signs of lethargy. Housing Although parrot cages make suitable homes for short-tailed parrots, longtailed varieties should be kept in an outside aviary or an indoor flight, as can short-tailed parrots. A single caged bird will require a lot of attention and stimulus if it is not to become bored and frustrated (a common cause of feather plucking). If the bird is to be left on its own for long periods it is better to give it a companion. Love birds should always be kept in pairs or small groups. A roomy cage is a necessity unless housed in an aviary and must be large enough for your parrot to stretch its wings and fly from perch to perch. Parrots are climbing birds so it is preferable to choose a cage with horizontal bars. A removable tray will make cleaning easier. You should avoid putting the cage in draughts, direct sunlight or in damp or humid conditions. Sandsheets or cage bird sand should be placed in the bottom of the cage and replaced regularly. The cage should be furnished with perches of different diameter and one or two toys. Do not overcrowd the cage. Try and buy a selection of toys and rotate them to avoid boredom. Remove droppings daily. The cage and furnishings should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected with a pet safe disinfectant weekly. Do not place perches directly above food and water pots. Outside aviaries must have a sheltered section to provide protection from wind, rain and strong sunlight and for many species may need to be heated. This is where you should position the roosting site (the highest perch or nest box) and the food containers. The cage/aviary can be furnished with nonpoisonous wood branches such as fruit wood which will add interest and aid with keeping the beak short. Introducing your parrot to its new home Before introducing your parrot to its new home fill the food and water pots and sprinkle a little extra onto the floor to ensure that he has enough to eat until he finds its seed pots. Make sure all windows and doors are closed and fires are guarded. Gently open one end of the carry box and let your parrot walk into its new home. If he appears anxious or does not settle drape a cloth over three sides of the cage until he settles. This can be gradually removed as he settles. Leave him to adjust quietly. Only cover the cage at night if the room temperature is likely to fall. Feeding and Water It is important that you give your parrot a varied diet. Each day you should offer food from the following categories. Cereals - A good quality parrot mixture is available from your pet shop.
Check the seed dishes daily and remove any empty husks. Refill as necessary. Fruits - Apples, bananas, oranges, grapes, pears, cherries Vegetables - Celery, carrots, beetroot, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, fresh
peas and beans Supplements - Cuttlefish is a source of calcium and helps to keep the beak
worn down. A mineral block will provide essential minerals and trace elements. Vitamin drops should be added to the water. Millet seed can be given as a treat as can honey bells and seed bars. Fresh foods must be thoroughly washed before being offered. Food and water pots should be washed regularly. Fresh water should always be available. Choosing and buying your rabbit There are many varieties of rabbits available that vary greatly in size and temperament. Dwarf lop eared rabbits are very popular due to their appealing looks, attractive colours and docile nature. Although a dwarf lop is smaller than English or French lops. they can still be quite large when fully grown and can weigh more than 2kg. Longhaired rabbits are less suitable as pets because they usually need daily grooming, which is time consuming and must not be neglected. Whatever variety is chosen, rabbits should be at least 8 weeks old. When you buy a new baby rabbit, it should be fed only hay and water for the first day and allowed time to adapt to its new home. You should continue to feed whatever the rabbit is used to for at least the first few weeks. Any change of diet should be made slowly over a period of 7 to 30 days. Housing Rabbits should be provided with as large cage as possible in which they can comfortably stand on their hind legs. A hutch for outdoors should be sturdy and water proof. It should be raised off the floor by about 25cm and placed in a sheltered position or inside a shed. Rabbits must be protected from inclement weathers as well as strong sunlight. (a hutch cover, blanket or piece of old carpet will often offer added protection on cold nights) House rabbits are often kept in cages similar to those used for hamsters, only much larger. These should be placed in a cool room and out of direct sunlight and draughts. All rabbits benefit from access to a pen or run in the garden. Avoid using pesticides nearby and ensure that the enclosure is secure enough to keep the rabbit in as well as other animals out. Bedding and hutch maintenance A hutch or cage should have a layer of shavings on the floor with plenty of hay or straw provided for nesting. Any shavings or bedding that become wet should be removed daily along with any uneaten fresh foods. Hygiene is extremely important, particularly in summer. If not kept clean the hutch will attract flies and other undesirable pests. As a general rule, cages should be cleaned thoroughly at least once a week. A good quality, petfriendly disinfectant should be used and all the bedding and shavings replaced with a fresh supply. Rabbits often use the same area for their toilet every day. This allows them to be trained to use a litter tray which can be easily cleaned out daily. Outdoor runs should be moved regularly. Feeding and Water The most important part of a rabbit's diet is good quality hay or freeze dried grass. This should be fed liberally and be available at all times. Rabbits need to nibble all day so hay gives them something to do. Most importantly, it provides the fibre needed for a healthy gut and helps to prevent dental problems. A wide range of prepared foods is available and many are now formulated for rabbits of different ages or sizes. Be very careful not to overfeed as this can lead to obesity. Fresh foods are always enjoyed but should be given in moderation. Baby rabbits in particular should only get very small amounts and contrary to popular belief, lettuce should be avoided. Suitable fresh foods include kale, spring greens, broccoli and carrot as well as fruit like apple. Fresh foods should be washed thoroughly before feeding and should not be allowed to become frosted or frozen. Anything that is not eaten should be removed regularly. Fresh clean water must be available at all times and is best provided by a gravity-fed bottle. |
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